The origins and future of the sommelier

The origin of the sommelier

Early sommeliers would probably be astonished to see how their profession has evolved and the reputation it has within global gastronomy today.

The definition provided by the Real Academia Española has very little to do with the current reality. The dictionary's reference to large hotels, palace or ecclesiastical stewards largely reflects the profession's past rather than its present.

To varying degrees, wine service has played a significant role alongside food culture since ancient times. Ganymede was cup-bearer to the gods in Greek mythology, and the Romans had a specific name for the people two tasted and served wine (cámera). In the 18th century, however, wine culture really started to come into its own.

There are different theories about the origin of the word “sommelier.” One of them points to the Latin word sumere, which means to absorb liquid, to drink. Another is based on the name for the person who was responsible for the wine during long voyages in medieval France, known as the somerier. The job entailed transporting the wine in carts drawn by animals, the bêtes de somme (pack animals). From there, the word evolved into sommelier, the person who took care of and knew about wine

Perhaps you have wondered about the special outfit of the sommelier and what it means: a type of pin depicting a cluster of grapes and a key, a leather apron, and that characteristic utensil they wear around their neck. Well, each item symbolizes specific functions pertaining to the early days of their profession. The leather apron represents the tough, dark leather smock they wore to unload the barrels and containers used to transport the wine. Nowadays, the tastevin (a type of shallow silver cup) has more of a decorative than functional purpose. It is the tasting symbol of the sommelier. The cup, originally fashioned in silver, is a French invention. Winemakers used it to taste wines in their dim cellars, illuminated only by candlelight. The symbol of the key originates with the sommeliers employed at castles or mansions. These trusted individuals were in charge of the cellar, which is why they had their own keys, a symbol of their status

Nowadays many sommeliers forego the uniform, but the attire is still required when participating in national or international sommelier competitions.

The future

Times have changed, and the culture and enjoyment of wine is no longer confined to a certain social class. Restaurants are now also judged on the quality of their wine list and the service shown to the customer. This has led to the increasing professionalization of the role of the sommelier. The great number of schools specializing in the field and the ever-widening range of professional tasks reveal the growing interest of the hotel and wine industry in developing this profession.

Nowadays, a good sommelier not only needs to be a wine expert, but also well versed in other beverages and gastronomy. In addition to knowing everything there is to know about wine tasting, a sommelier must have skills in a number of other areas—communication, management, wine selection and service, and wine and food pairing. The main responsibility of a sommelier is to provide expert wine service at restaurants or specialized wine stores as well as advising clients, selecting wines and overseeing wine cellar rotation.

The service is clearly client-focused, because they determine the sommelier’s professional reputation and that of the establishment. The sommelier's role is a combination adviser, ally and filter to help guide the client. Gerard Basset, the world's best sommelier, always says that a sommelier is also a salesperson, because he or she needs to adapt to the food and budget, as well as know how much a client wishes to spend.

What makes a good sommelier? Their personal trademark is the wine list. The way they act in the room denotes their style, and the language they use, their personality. A good sommelier knows how to listen and observe. We remember a good sommelier for his or her excellent service, thoughtful interaction and ability to identify with the customer.

As a link between wine producers and end consumers, sommeliers also convey knowledge of wine culture and in doing so they form part of the gastronomic world. At a restaurant, the sommelier represents the link between the food, wine and customer, because the dining room is the ultimate stage of the gastronomic experience.